
DESIGN AND BUILD AN RC BIRD MODEL
The tip feathers operate in a region of up-flow as the vortex begins to form around the wingtip. They have a large negative angle relative to the wing but are generating
upward lift and a small amount of forward thrust. When used differentially as ailerons, the difference in lift produces a roll, and the difference in thrust causes a small
yaw in the same direction. (These birds are pretty clever!)
Initial setting: no roll, slight adverse yaw
Final setting: good roll, slight proverse yaw
TIP FEATHER CONFIGURATIONS
Here, the formers and side sheeting have been added to the
structure.
FLIGHT CHARACTERISTICS
Set the elevator's neutral position so the elevator is
parallel with the stabilizer. If you
are using a computer radio,
program the throttle lever to
control (bias) the two ailerons up
or down together (like flaperons).
Set the tip-aileron neutral position
so that the leading edge of each
aileron is about 1/8 inch below the
wing's leading edge. Add ballast
as necessary to get the CG to the
location shown on the plan. Do
some hand glides in still air to
establish the trim settings.
For slope advocates, this
model is a real floater, as is its
real-life counterpart. Without ballast, it does not
penetrate well but is quite realistic in a fight
destabilizing influence of
the body, heads, beaks and
other lateral areas
forward of the CG.
Artificial vertical fins in
the form of "feet" (ventral
fins) or clear circular discs
near the wingtip, toed-in
about 20 degrees, can be
beneficial for early flights.
The required fin area is
usually quite small (6 to 8
square inches) and can be
reduced or removed as
flight experience increases.
Note: electric motors at
breeze. If you have a computer radio, you can
experiment with the aileron bias setting in flight.
There should be a position that
allows gentle coordinated turns
with the tip ailerons with no
adverse yaw. If you don't have a
computer radio, try adjusting the
aileron bias on successive flights
to find the best setting. (Don't go
too far upward, or aileron control
will disappear completely.) The
model will be considerably lighter
than the real bird, so experiment-
ing with ballast is appropriate.
Your Turkey Vulture model will
not only attract attention from
your fellow modelers, but it will
also likely attract some attention from other soar-
ing birds, such as hawks and ravens.
the front have been tried and are quite
destabilizing. If you intend to try a pro-
peller, use one of the above techniques to
add some vertical fin area.
STRUCTURE
The outer wing panels of a real bird are
extremely light compared with the rest of
the structure (they're just feathers!). Outer
wing panels should be kept as light as
possible to keep roll inertia low. Heavy
wingtips result in unwanted rolling
oscillations. Unusual wing dihedral
patterns (gull, for example) can be
duplicated by using a full-depth balsa spar
and cutting it to the desired dihedral
shape. For thin wings,
glue carbon fiber to
the top and bottom of
the spar for added
strength. Sheeting the
leading edges (top and
bottom, back to the
spar) will provide the
necessary D-tube sec-
tion for torsion
strength. The model's
weight will likely be
considerably less than
that of a real bird,
especially for larger
species, but this differ-
ence is mainly in the
fuselage (body weight
and shoulder muscles).
88 MODEL AIRPLANE NEWS
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